Slope-Hettnger Soil Conservation District

New Tree Plantings

Selecting a Location:

    As a general rule, trees and shrubs should be placed so that they may develop freely without crowding each other, the house, utility lines or other structures.

    Before selecting an exact spot for a tree or shrub, determine its mature size by consulting nursery personnel, catalogs, garden books, or extension publications.

Planting the Tree:

Caution: Always pick up the tree by the container or root ball, no by the trunk.

    The ideal time to plant trees and shrubs is during the dormant season - fall after leafdrop or early spring before budbreak.  Proper planting is essential to ensure a healthy future for new trees and shrubs.

    1. Dig a large planting hole - The planting hole should be dug as deep as the root ball and twice as wide.

    2. Prune Sparingly - Examine the tree closely for injury to roots or branches.  If any roots are crushed, cut them at a point just in front of the break.  On the top, prune only broken branches, making sure to leave the branch collar (swollen area where one branch meet another) intact.

    3. Prepare the hole and soil - While some newly transplanted trees may benefit from an application of plant food, it is best not to use fertilizer until the plant is well-established.  Good, rich native soil placed in the hole is usually adequate.  Never apply high nitrogen fertilizer at planting time: it may burn tender roots.

    4. Place the tree at the proper height - Add  a sufficient amount of soil to the planting hole to bring the tree to its original growing level.  This level is indicated by a dark stain on the trunk which marks the difference.  Planting at the proper height is important because if a tree is set too deep, its roots may suffocate; on the other hand, if the tree is set too shallow, the roots may dry out in the air and sun.

    Fill the hole, gently but firmly.  If the tree s balled and burlapped, cut the string and remove all accessible burlap.  For trees in plantable baskets, perforate the sides of the basket in four or five places and break off the top rim.  Be careful not to make these punctures too big; they should allow roots to penetrate into the soil but not cause the basket to fall apart.

    Firm the earth around the tree to hold it in place and to eliminate air pockets.  These air pockets may cause some roots to lose contact with the soil and dry out.  To avoid this problem, settle the soil with water and add soil to the hole until the tree is firmly established.  Do not use your feet to tamp around the base of the tree: this compacts the soil and may inhibit the spread of roots.  Create a small dam around the margin of the hole to serve as a reservoir for water.

6. Stake the tree, if necessary - Staking a tree can cause bark damage, so it should be avoided where possible.  Staking must be done very carefully with a broad, soft strapping material such as woven belt fabric or padded wire.

    Drive 2 or 3 stakes into the ground just outside the perimeter of the planting hole, spacing them an equal distance apart.  For each stake, attach one end of the strapping material to the tree at the lowest practical level to maintain it upright and fasten the other end to the stake.  Remove the stakes as soon as the tree has firmly rooted itself in the soil.

7. Mulch the base of the tree - Some good choices of material are leaf litter, pine straw, shredded bark and twigs, peat moss and wood chips.  A 2 to 4 inch layer conserves soil moisture and protects newly-planted  tree roots from hot and cold temperatures.

8. Water regularly - Since many roots were removed when the tree was dug in the nursery, regular watering is important to aid the development of a strong new root system in the new site.  Keep the soil moist but not soaked, as overwatering will cause leaves to turn yellow or fall off.  When soil is dry 4 inches below the surface, it time to water.  Continue until mid-fall and then taper off, as this is the time for the tree to stop growing and harden for winter.